Thursday 3 April: London-Kuwait-Dubai-Delhi
Up to Heathrow. I’m not impressed with Terminal 4. As we flew over the coast, we were able to see Lancing below. Landed at Kuwait then on to Dubai and from there to Delhi.
Friday 4 April: Delhi
We landed at 5am feeling rather tired. Joined the other six tourists and Karen, our escort, and they all seem very nice.
Were taken to the Ashok Hotel which is said to be the best in Delhi. We were given a lovely big room.
After breakfast we went for a tour of Old Delhi and went to Rajghat, the Gandhi shrine and museum, which is in a lovely garden.
Next, we went to the Jama Mosque.
Then we went to the Red Fort which really is something. The gardens were most attractive.
At 2.30am, we were off into New Delhi, which in fact had very old monuments. We went to Humayun’s Tomb built in 1365.
From there we went to Qutab Minar, which was a most unusual collection of styles. There is a beautiful tower which is 78 metres high and 12 metres in diameter at the base and then there is a mosque and temple. There were lots of columns and every one was different and the roof was all stone with no mortar used.
Saturday 5 April: Delhi – flight to Kathmandu
Left the hotel at 7.15am for the airport. Headed to Kathmandu, with a wonderful view of the Himalayas above the mist of a very dry plain.
Drove to the Hotel Annapurna for lunch. Then went for a walk in the town.
We saw them making a juggernaut, a wooden cart with wooden wheels and a tower-like construction on it, which was tilting at a very dangerous angle.
We then went up to the Royal Palace before returning to the hotel for a very refreshing swim.
Sunday 5 April: Kathmandu
Drove around the edge of Kathmandu and up to the large stupa (Buddhist burial or commemorative monument). The streets and everywhere are filthy dirty.
This temple is also known as the Monkey Temple because of all the monkeys running around. Even here it was incredibly dirty.
We went to the Durban Square and were taken to see the living goddess who – poor soul – looked very bored. She is very lovely and only seven years old.
We were taken on a long walk through the streets looking at various Buddhist and Hindu temples. At 2pm we left the city and went 15km to Bhaktapur where there was even more dirt and squalor and more temples. These were mainly of the pagoda style with different animals in pairs of the steps.
We went to an old palace which was 1500 years old where the carving is very beautiful. Some children pestered us and actually got their hands in my bag. There are going to be some problems in that town soon.
We went back towards Kathmandu to the place where the cremations take place. The temple there, Pasupati, is 2000 years old and the river where the cremations take place is the Bagmati.
Lastly, we were taken to the largest stupa in Nepal, Boudhanath.
Evening meal was not served until 8, and Annette was ill at the end of it. By midnight she was bad enough to make me get a doctor to her.
Monday 6 April: Kathmandu-bus to Xhanghu
The doctor arrived at 1.15am and gave Annette a couple of injections and a load of tablets. Felt worn out in the morning and none too good myself.
Seven of us got on the bus heading for Tibet. The journey was very pleasant through high hills. At about 9.30am, we had a stop by a lovely river and were able to spend a penny – that was the last I went all day.
We followed the river all the way. We stopped for a meal about five kilometres from the border and the road became progressively worse.
We walked across the friendship bridge and then began to climb. Annette had a Sherpa to carry her when necessary. I set off at my own pace and, with the aid of a small but very strong Tibetan boy, I got up. We both made it to the top. It was a mile walk to our hotel where our room was passable.
Tuesday 7 April: Xhanghu- bus to Tingri
What a noise! There were workmen working over our heads until 2am. Got up at 6.30am. Just before 8am we set off up the hill. We spent the rest of the morning around the hotel and one man sang beautifully as he chopped wood.
At 1pm, the gong sounded and we all went for a meal. We managed to get a little food to stay down.
At 2pm, we all got on the coach and set off past a landslide, which was a little hair-raising. Then we crossed another landslip which was really horrific as there were such big boulders which were on the move.
From then on, the journey up to the plateau was magnificent with magnolias, rhododendrons, Cornus mas and lots of beautiful trees and flowers.
Then suddenly we were up onto the high plateau. As we progressed there was more and more snow and just before it got dark, we came to the place you could see Mount Everest.
It was pitch black when we arrived at the New Tingri Hotel which was just as primitive as the most primitive Arab hotel. We had to have three people to a room.
Wednesday 8 April: Tingri- bus to Shigatse
Up in the dark and was immediately sick. That was it for the rest of the day and I felt awful.
There is very little I can recall of the journey except for miles and miles of desolate villages and high hills with just the occasional view of mountains.
We arrived at Shigatsei at midday and went to our room and there we stayed for the rest of the day. It was a good room with our own bedroom which was essential. We were given oxygen which helped for a few minutes but no more.
Thursday 9 April: Shigatse-bus to Lhasa
Slept on and off for 14 hours.
The coach left at 8.15am and although the scenery was still dun-coloured, there was a lot of muddy water flowing and there were trees which had been cut.
We stopped at Gyantse to look at the monastery. We had to walk the mile down the road and I don’t know how I made it but it was worth the effort.
From there the scenery became more spectacular as we rose to a height of 16,548 feet and saw a mountain that was 19,220 feet.
Then we came to Lake Yangzyang where we had a picnic. It was lovely and peaceful and pleasantly warm.
We crossed the Kambala Pass at 15,724 feet and the view was magnificent.
We descended to the Lhasa River then along a tarmac road into Lhasa itself.
Friday 10 April: Lhasa
Felt very headachy.
Went to the Jokhang Temple, which is the main spiritual centre of Tibet. It began 1300 years ago.
Even the children were so devote. They had all had little oil lamps and poured oil into each of the pans in front of the shrines. There was a strong smell of yak oil and a murmur of chanting and the bells.
The woodwork was all very beautiful and ornate. The monks were also kind gentle and helpful.
We had to make our own way down which was quite a feat as the steps are very steep with a sort of ladder.
After a rest, we set out for the Summer Palace Norbulinka, which means ‘jewel park’. The gardens were lovely with the blossom just coming out.
We were taken to the 14th Dalai Lama’s palace, which is a strange mixture of 1930’s and old style, with a gold and jewelled throne. The Tibetans were so devote that they stretched full out on the floor and touched their foreheads on the furniture.
We were then taken to the zoo and then to the river where the others went for a trip across the river on a yak coracle.
We went to the school of performing art and had an hour and a half of dancing singing and music. One of the boys in particular was an incredible dancer, as good as I have ever seen even at Covent Garden. The girls were so beautiful and graceful and the boys’ singing was full and round and the pipes had the feel of the mountains. Well worth it.
Saturday 11 April: Lhasa
The coach took us up as far as it could up the Potala Palace (a dzong fortress, the winter palace of the Dalai Lamas from 1649 to 1959) and I felt very weak climbing up.
It all seemed very dark and each room had lots of alcoves full of scultpures of the various Dalai Lamas. Some are gold, some of bronze. None of the place gave the impression that you would want to live there. The view from it was lovely.
After a rest, we had a trip to the Sera Monastery. The outstanding feature is the large merciful Buddha.
In the debating garden were about 20 groups of about 10 in each having long serious discussions.
We saw paintings of Buddhas on the rocks above the monastery and above all that is a nunnery which has seven women in it. They were doing the building work.
Sunday 12 April: Lhasa
We drove to the Drepung Monastery.
In the kitchen, large quantities of wood were being consumed in a little room which had a gigantic oven in the middle with lots of pots bubbling away like witches’ cauldrons.
I actually managed to eat a little at dinner time.
At 3.30pm we set forth again, seeing a yak in the fields. We were taken into the upper room of a house, which had seats on two sides and beautifully decorated cabinets. On the walls were the traditional religious paintings mounted on magnificent brocade. The owner of the house was the artist of these and the carver of the furniture.
Yak tea was handed round which taste more like broth.
We went back to the main square and walked round the free market which was like a North African souk.
Monday 13 April: Lhasa
Went to the university. We were taken to the art and music department where we were showing some very good art and one of the teachers sang for us At the moment they have 800 students.
We were supposed to go to a carpet factory but it was closed.
After the meal we had a stroll down to the river before going out for the afternoon which was a big fiasco. We ended up at an old temple which was interesting but very dusty.
We got back to the hotel before going for a meal. I actually decided to have a main course but, oh dear what a grave error. The effect was dynamic by the time we got back to our room. I spent a rather uncomfortable night.
Tuesday 14 April: Lhasa – flight to Chengdu
Breakfast at 6 and a full moon on the journey. Dawn did not begin to break until we crossed the Lhasa river.
We arrived at the airport and flew to Chengdu landing in a very thick mist. Everything was crowded and scruffy and dull and dark and I felt miserable.
We were taken to a restaurant and I was in a real mess and could not eat a single thing. In the town there were very few motor vehicles but millions of bikes.
We went farther back streets to our hotel and freshened up before setting out again. We went to a so-called gallery and then to Chengdu zoo to see the Giant Pandas. They have 20 there and have reared five babies.
Next we went to a bamboo factory which is rather fascinating as it was plaiting bamboo around plain china.
To my horror from there we went to a restaurant without returning to the hotel. I ate nothing again and could smell the toilets without going near them. I was cold tired and hungry.
Wednesday 15 April: Chengdu – train to Leshan
Up at 6.30am with stomach pains and dread.
We drove in the dark to the station – it really was in the dark as the bus had no lights and nor did any of the many cyclists.
We went to the very end of the train and into the soft seat carriage which was very comfortable. At the next stop our carriage was invaded and we had smokers.
It was misty all the way but the sun shone through and we were transferred to minibus after three hours and set off for Leshan. It was a pleasant journey through the country. The road was under repair – miles of excavation and roadworks all done by hand.
It was just gone midday when we arrived at the Hotel Jiazhou. Our room was overlooking a very wide river and was most agreeable.
After a quick wash we clambered over the builders’ rubble to the dining room where, joy of joy, I was able to eat a sufficiency.
At 2pm we set off to see the big Buddha. We climbed onto boats – ours was a lovely oriental one.
It was only a few yards cross the river but the current was very swift. On the boat there was tea, bananas and cherries and even sweets, and you just help yourself.
We were driven to the top of the Buddha to look at the temple, and the gardens there were very pleasant.
On our return we called at a silk factory and saw the spinning. We then went to the weaving section that was silk brocade and quite exquisite.
Went to bed feeling much happier and with the sound of the river in our ears.
Thursday 16 April: Leshan – Jia Jiang
Went to Mount Emei and from the misty plains suddenly rose these mountains. They were very beautiful – half cultivated and half forested.
It was a pleasant walk up to the Wannian Temple and we were shown a Buddha on an elephant.
We returned to the station and got on the train which was 20 carriages long. No wonder it went so slowly. We watched them shunting goods carriages by manpower. The soft seated carriage was full but this time with happy families.
We spent the night at the Jiajiang hotel.
Friday 17 April
We went to Chengdu County which was a town of a mere 200,000!
We visited the Shining Light Pagoda temple which was most attractive. The pagoda gives the impression of leaning but it is purely an optical illusion.
In the praying part of the temple they have the most beautiful piece of patchwork you could ever wish to see. There were some priceless paintings, some over 2000 years old and a group of 500 statues each one with a different face. The locals were all very devout, offering them joss sticks.
We then went to the thatched House of Du Fu in a pleasant park. We were hurried over the road to an embroidery factory where the work is all hand done in silk and is most magnificent. We bought a lovely picture of birds for £20 but the fineness of the workmanship is amazing. The girls worked like mad and looked worn out.
Then off to the airport; the plane turned out to be a very small turboprop. We had some good views and the scenery soon went arid.
We arrived in Xian and soon were on the bus heading for the Tang Cheng hotel. It was a very poor meal – I had half a dozen peanuts and an inch of thin spam.
Saturday 18 April
We’re on the 11th floor and have an enormous bay window but has it has nothing underneath.
We headed into the city getting into a terrible traffic jam which lasted all the way to Bampo which is the remains of a nearly Neolithic village.
We had another half hour drive to see the terracotta army at Qinyong. They are part of the tomb of Qin Shi Huang who had an enormous underground palace.
It is estimated there will eventually be 6000 soldiers but at the moment there are only 800. Apparently, they had been brightly coloured and must have been a magnificent sight.
We went to see the bronze chariot which is really wonderful with detail so perfect.
Next we went to some hot springs where it was very hot very crowded and the water was very mucky.
Sunday 19 April
It is Easter day but there is nothing to indicate such an event. We went to the big Wild Goose Pagoda where there were some lovely flowering cherries, lilac and Judas trees in the garden.
Next, we returned to the walled city and to the museum. Here we saw some beautiful objects dating back to 1000 BC. There were lovely glazed statues, a seismograph, the writing of Confucius on long stone tablets, and a stone rhino carved using a live rhino as a model. We were given 20 minutes to walk on top of the wall.
We were taken to the mosque which was entirely Chinese style but very beautiful and quiet. Very little bore any resemblance to North African Islam.
We went to the People’s Hotel in the old city which has a proper theatre about the size of the Grand in Brighton. The performance was excellent, but the audience was appalling. They talked all the way through, took flash photos and moved positions. The performance was of Tang Dynasty dances and music, and the costumes looked lovely.
Monday 20 August
A short trip to the airport and we headed to Beijing and the Yan Kiang hotel.
At 3pm we set off into the city and went to the Temple of Heaven. The place had two circular temples which had blue tiled roofs.
From there we went to the Tiananmen Square which is said to be the largest in the world
The evening the evening was spent enjoying chocolate and reading.
Tuesday 21 April
At 9am we set off on our own travels. We went to the Ming tombs where the driveway up is lined with pairs of animals, the first kneeling and the second standing. It starts with things like lions and progresses to camels, elephants and horses before the human beings.
We went to the Chang Ling tomb museum and saw beautiful things from the tomb of the 13th Emperor including lovely head-dresses and jewellery.
We then went towards the Great Wall and the mist cleared and we were able to see the tops of the mountains.
We eventually came to a gateway of the Great Wall where there were crowds and hundreds of coaches. We were given an hour and a half to climb the wall, the first part of which was the steepest and most crowded. After that it was pleasant as there were very few people.
In the evening, we went to see acrobatics where the performance began with a man with whips followed by two small boys juggling with large pots. They were very good. There was a girl on a motorcycle, a girl contortionist and a man going through a small hoop, a conjuror and finally two men doing bird impressions. It was all very enjoyable.
Wednesday 22 April
Went to the Forbidden City for the morning. The first part has no trees as apparently the Emperor was afraid of people hiding behind them. Also, the floor is 15 blocks deep in case someone tried to tunnel underneath.
The most interesting features were the Museum of clocks and the theatre which had some of their costumes. There was quite a bit of gold and some magnificent hairpins. We looked through some of the 9999 rooms.
We went on to the Summer Palace, one of whose main features was a corridor over 700 metres long with beautiful paintings on the ceiling.
We then went onto the marble boat on which the Dowager Empress spent much money.
We drove back into the city and went to a restaurant for a Beijing duck meal. It turns out Karen had her bag stolen in the Forbidden City.
We then went to the opera which was an experience. The local people cheered when one character came on and every now and then clapped her like mad. All the time they were chatting away. We only just got the vaguest of ideas as to what it was about.
Thursday 23 April
The coach left at 6.30am for the airport. We arrived at 11am in Hong Kong and were taken to the New Garden Hotel. We then went to walk around the shops where everything seemed expensive.
At 2.30pm we went on an excursion for $80 each on a bus. We went to Victoria Peak so you had a view of Kowloon and the north side of the island, and then to Stanley to look at the market.
We found the sea front but could not get on the beach; it looked nice although the guide said it was polluted. We then went to Aberdeen Bay where all the sampans are. We went onto a boat, which cost of $35 each. All the time you were told how much this cost and how much that. A lot of the sampans are being turned into flats.
The guide actually seemed to believe the promise that nothing would change for 50 years after China takes over.
We made a call at a jewellery factory when nothing was cheap and then headed for the airport for the flight to Bahrain.
Friday 24 April
I don’t know which day it was when we actually landed in Bahrain but we had 15 minutes to wander around before heading off again. Arrived back in Heathrow, caught a bus to Gatwick and then a train to Brighton and we were home by 11am.