Friday 7 April: Melbourne
We got to Flinders Street Station at 12 noon and got a taxi to Melbourne docks. We got on our boat and I went to find the cabin whilst Annette looked after the baggage. After an evening meal, we walked up and down the deck for a while before bed. At the moment we have the cabin to ourselves. As we left Melbourne it became very cloudy.
Saturday 8 April: Adelaide; at sea
Cloudy most of the day and rather cool. The sea was very calm. We landed at Adelaide at 4:30pm and left again at 8pm.
Sunday 9 April: At sea
I survived until about 9:30am and then was sick. By 11, I got fed up trying to get to a toilet in time.
Monday 10 April: At sea
Much better today and sat on the deck all the time as the sun was shining. There is nothing to do. Even the swimming pool is empty.
Tuesday 11 April: Perth; at sea
A baby bird landed in the swimming pool. The children started to be very cruel to it, so we went to the rescue. We took it down to our cabin until after breakfast.
The ship docked about 9am but no-one wants to do anything about our poor little bird. Some said it should not be allowed to land until we assured them that it was a real Australian bird.
We asked lots of people and in the end the post office told us where to find a vet so we took it there and left it. Felt much better for it.
The sun started to come out so we decided to walk around Fremantle rather than going to Perth. Got a lovely tea towel for mum and spent the last few coins on some soap.
The ship left at 1:30pm and as we left the lee of an island the ship began to rock and roll and pitch and toss all at the same time. We have two others in our cabin now, but we did not see them until they came to bed and as they didn’t put a light on we pretended to be asleep.
Wednesday 12 April: At sea
The pool was actually filled but it was used mainly by men and children.
Thursday 13 April: At sea
The sea became very rough. A 7am we were told off by the crew for being on the deck but the Italian men were not told to move. We were livid.
It was a gala dinner, but it was not that special except for the fish being served separately and having a sparkling wine.
Friday 14 April: At sea
After breakfast we went on deck as usual. We had an hour’s good entertainment listening to a group of people complaining about the ship. After dinner we went to watch the dancing.
Saturday 15 April: At sea
Saw a lovely large albatross come right over the boat.
The children were a nuisance to everyone and filthy dirty too.
Sunday 16 April: At sea
The swimming pool was filled but we did not feel like going in it after all the children spitting yesterday.
After lunch it turned cool but we enjoyed ourselves watching a group of women doing exercises.
Monday 17 April: At sea
Able to sit on deck all day. Had an albatross following the ship all afternoon.
Tuesday 18 April: At sea
Spent all day on deck in the sun.
Wednesday 19 April: At sea
They actually filled the pool at 10am so we were able to go for a swim.
Thursday 20 April: Arrival in South Africa
We didn’t have to put the clocks back today so quite a few people missed breakfast. The boat docked at Cape Town at 11:30am.
The Land Rovers of our overlanding group are a bright pink so you cannot miss them. We are in the English van with the oldies.
We went to the bank and to find a post office which is segregated into whites and non-whites and a man came round to make sure you didn’t get into the wrong section.
We looked round some of the shops and there is some beautiful stuff in them. We returned to the station. The whites’ station is a magnificent place with shops and refreshment places.
We drove out to camp along a motorway.
Friday 21 April: South Africa
We were the first two up but soon joined by a couple we picked up here who were very nice and very efficient. The man is used to doing bulk cooking. Had sausages and eggs for breakfast.
We went into Cape Town again and managed to get some netting to act as a mosquito net.
Saturday 22nd April: South Africa
Went into Cape Town again so that we could go up the cable car up Table Mountain. The view was glorious.
We left the city and at Somerset West we could see the sea and then we climbed up to Sir Lowry’s pass which is very beautiful.
We went on to Swellendam. Managed to get a bath.
Sunday 23 April: South Africa
The scenery was very pleasant farmland with mountains. About 11am, Mike’s van had a puncture.
We got to Mossel Bay and stopped on the sea front. We went to see the post office tree which is the spot where Bartholomew Diaz, the Portuguese explorer, first landed.
We started to climb the Robinson Pass. This is a magnificent piece of scenery. We stopped at an ostrich farm. Some of our group had a ride on them.
We went on to the camp which was a very rocky place. We were able to put up the tents and start the food off in the daylight.
Monday 24 April: South Africa
Off by 8:45 to the Kangaroo Caves. The first two caves are very big and we had over half an hour of son et lumiere which was a bit much although the Madonna and child went quite well with Ave Maria.
We went up and down 240 steps and along a very low stretch. I gave up at the chimney but Annette was going to have a go but cut her leg on a ladder so we went back to the entrance on our own. It was rather nice as you had more time to look.
We headed to Merringspoort which is a ravine through the mountains. It was wonderful.
Then on to Beaufort West for the night.
Tuesday 25 April: South Africa
The whole journey today was on flat land. We stopped at Victoria West and Strydenburg and tried for food at hope town but carried on to Kimberley. Very cold night.
Wednesday 26 April: South Africa
Went to the diamond mines museum which was very interesting. There is an enormous hole where they got diamonds.
The journey today was through rolling farmland with a lot of maize, sunflowers and millet.
We stopped at Warrenten and Klerksdorp. At a junction. Bill in the first minibus stopped, started to move forward, then stopped again. Mike behind him must have put his foot hard on the accelerator and gave us a mighty biff in the rear. Annette got a bruised arm and the door is now hard to open.
We got to the camp about 5:30pm, about 13 miles outside Johannesburg.
Thursday 27 April: South Africa
Very cold night. We all went in the Land Rovers into Johannesburg. We took a photo of the antelope fountain and went to the railway station and the Dewburg gardens.
On the way we saw a hairdresser so went in. We came out looking like shorn lambs.
We found the tower and paid $0.20 each to go up. It was an excellent view from the top over the city and the gold slag heaps.
After the evening meal, most of the overlanders went back into the city but we stayed behind.
Friday 28 April: South Africa
We stopped at a snake farm in the pouring rain. Unfortunately we got there on feeding day and they were giving the snakes white mice and guinea pigs. We watched a man milk two snakes, one of which was a Puff Adder.
We carried onto Pretoria. We went up to the Voortrekkers Monument where the museum is very interesting.
Camped near Warmbaths (now Bela Bela).
Saturday 29 April: Into Rhodesia
Soon began to pour with rain and the cook tent was almost underwater.
We headed for the border a very fast speed. The drivers did condescend to stop at the Tropic of Capricorn for a photograph.
Night fell while we were at the customs and there was a heavy thunderstorm but luckily it had stopped when we got to the camp.
As soon as the meal was finished we went to bed but the others got to bed at 3am.
Sunday 30 April: Rhodesia
Got up at 6am and we were on the road by 9am. The scenery was real game land and in fact we saw monkeys, Eland, and birds with ribbon tails. Finally, we did stop when we saw three Giraffes.
We got to Bulawayo about 1:30. We went to a native village to see some dancing. It may have been commercialised but they did enjoy themselves.
Next we went to see Rhodes’ grave at World’s End and on the way saw Baboon, Sable and monkeys. The scenery was very rocky and lovely.
We got to camp just after the sunset.
Monday 1 May: Rhodesia
Off into Bulawayo and we were dropped outside the post office. We changed money, bought postcards and stamps and then we walked slowly up to and through the parks which are very beautiful. We went into the museum and looked at the stuffed animals and birds.
We got to camp at 6:15pm.
Tuesday 2 May: Rhodesia
There was a frost in the night.
In the Hwange National Park, there were lots of Zebra and Wildebeest, Impala, Ostrich and Warthog and one Elephant and Waterbuck.
We returned to camp at 10am and had a meal which was to last as lunch as well.
At 11:15am we went out again and saw more Zebra, Impala and a herd of Giraffe. We saw one Crocodile in the pool and saw a Steenbok, Duiker and Warthog.
Then we went to a second pool where there was an Elephant as close as could be, then a Giraffe and a herd of Impala. It was a wonderful sight. We saw a lot of beautiful birds such as Blue Starlings, hornbills, rollers, herons and many others.
Wednesday 3 May: Rhodesia
Got breakfast inside us: one slice of bread each, porridge with no salt, and spaghetti. The doctor and wife are cooking and claim they have everything organised.
We left camp at 8:30am and raced through the park with the driver saying “You’ve seen those”. We stopped at Sinamatella for the toilet which is the camp where a ranger was killed by a lion a short time ago.
We reached the town of Hwange. It is attractive with plenty of parks. It is a coal mining town.
We arrived at Victoria Falls camp at 4:30, put up the tents and then walked down to the falls. There was a lot of mist but the view was magnificent. There was a wonderful rainbow over the falls.
We hurried back for the meal at 6pm only to find it was late, as we had expected, and a very poor meal as it was corned beef hash with beans in it and fresh fruit salad cut up with an onion knife.
Thursday 4 May: Into Zambia
Walk down to the falls before breakfast at 8am.
For breakfast we got last night’s supper reheated.
We went down to the falls again as far as the danger point and got soaking wet and then sat in the sun until we dried out.
At 4:30pm we moved down the road to the customs. It was getting dark as we drove into Livingston and then on a further 15 miles. At the third event attempt we found the camp which was on very rocky ground.
Friday 5 May: Zambia
Hurried down to the falls before breakfast. It was just as misty as before.
Today the scenery was just dry bush for miles and miles without even a hill.
We got to Lusaka about 5pm. Had a cold bath before the meal.
Saturday 6 May: Zambia
We went into Lusaka and had until midday to look around. We posted a letter to mum.
In the afternoon it was simply a question of covering miles through flat timbered country until 5pm.
After the town of Kabwe we there was very little habitation.
About 5:30pm we pulled into the side of the road to make camp. We soon had the tents up, a fire going and the meal underway.
Sunday 7 May: Zambia
Up at 5am and away by 6:15.
We went to the village of Senenje for water where they were also able to get bread from the draper’s store.
It was a day of stops and goes because they filled the vans from petrol cans. Our van needed filling just when we got to a village so there was soon a group of children around. The women stood a little way apart so we went to talk to them and they allowed us to take a photo.
About 5pm we got to a small town of Isoka. Most of the men were drunk.
Camped in the grounds of a guest house.
Monday 8 May: Into Tanzania
Breakfast with no bread at 7am.
It did not take long to get through the Zambian side but naturally took longer on the Tanzanian side. They were very polite and considerate.
We stopped in Tunduma for petrol but they had sold out.
The scenery changed remarkably as we crossed the border. It became hilly, indeed almost mountainous, but it was all cultivated almost to the tops of the hills.
We went 35 miles and found petrol, but Bernadette was the only one with any Tanzanian money and she had only enough for a gallon of petrol for two vans.
We carried on another 10 to 15 miles then ran out of petrol on a steep hill. The other two vans went into Mbeya and we were left there for two hours with no drinking water. Paul’s van overheated so we had to stop and use some of our precious water for the car.
Tuesday 9 May: Tanzania
Our turn for cooking so we got up at 5:45am. Breakfast went very well.
We were of at 8am but Paul’s van had not cooled down and every scrap of water had been used. It was decided to two the van to the next town.
We didn’t get far so it was decided to leave the van behind and return to Mbeya for a new gasket. Paul took the cylinder head off only to find that not only had the gasket gone but the cylinder head was cracked as well. We settled down for a very long wait.
The scenery is very attractive and there are some lovely flowers. We had lunch but there was not one drop of water or anything to drink. Nikki and David nearly poisoned themselves trying to taste a plant.
Wednesday 10 May: Tanzania
We did very well and got breakfast ready for 6:30am but the only trouble was that Helen put a tin of pepper into the spaghetti which made it impossible to eat.
We headed to Iringa. We stopped for lunch opposite a house with a stream. It was as muddy as anything and pouring with rain.
Too many people came to help make lunch so too much bread was buttered.
It turned very warm and sunny as we got to the Ruaha river which was very beautiful indeed.
Then we went up a pass into tropical scenery and climate. We went through a National Park and as soon as we entered we saw Warthog, Elephant, Giraffe, Wildebeest, a stork with a red beak and Impala and Zebra.
At Mogor we run into heavy rain and the road deteriorated into potholes. The rest of the journey into Dar es Salaam was real hell. It was 126 miles along a narrow potholed road expecting an accident at any moment.
We got there about 9:30pm but it was another hour’s journey out to the camp. We went through enormous puddles on the track.
At 10:30 PM we were expected to put on a three course meal. As we started on the meal, Mike went for us for putting the cook tent in the wrong place. Harry then went for Mike and then there were complaints about the toilets and, all in all, a good time was had by all.
We got to bed about 1:30am.
Thursday 11 May: Tanzania
We got up at 6:15 to get the breakfast ready on time. We had a cup of tea sitting on the harbour front.
We found a hotel where we used the toilets and then saw an anti Vietnam demonstration come by. It was led by nurses and school children. The school children went on the beach in the harbour. The girls paddled but the boys stripped off and swam. They were fascinated by us drinking tea sitting on a bench.
It was 6:30pm by the time we got back to the camp so had to plunge straight into cooking fish and chips. Edwin started scaling the fish, Annette and I on the cabbage and chips. We were left cooking chips in sunflower seed oil which would not brown them and Edwin did not cook the fish for long enough so the meal was a flop.
Friday 12 May: Tanzania
The morning passed very pleasantly. We went for a swim as the tide was rising although that made Mike angry. Heard that Mike’s briefcase and passport had been stolen.
Saturday 13 May: Tanzania
We were told we would not be moving because of Mike’s stolen passport. It was a lovely morning. Without Mike there is no bickering or quarrelling.
We fried 130 sausages and produced a good meal which all enjoyed and then went for a dip in the sea.
Sunday 14 May: Tanzania
Returned to Dar-es-Salaam and then along the same road for 69 miles. The road was flooded in places but it improved as we took the road north.
We went through quite a few villages where we saw some Maasai men and women. The women were dressed in blue with rings round their arms and ankles. We carried on until 1:30pm when we stopped for lunch – two slices of bread each.
The rain came down and it was a real mess. We carried on to Korogwe. We went along a flat plain with hills to the north of us.
Mike insisted that we split up, but we refused to be separated from each other but agreed to go into Bill’s van. It overheated just as it got dark.
We got to Moshi at 8:30pm and the meal was finished by 9:45pm and that was the end of our six day stint.
Monday 15 May: Tanzania
Set off for Arusha. The journey took us through lovely tropical scenery with banana and coffee plantations.
After Arusha that scenery changed to grassland and we saw lots of Maasai but could not take photos as they demanded money.
When we stopped for lunch, a crowd of Maasai came up for money.
Soon after lunch we turned onto an unsurfaced road which led to Lake Manyara, then up the side of the Rift Valley and into hilly scenery.
We got to the gates of the Ngorongoro Crater when it was discovered that Paul’s van was not with us. We went back and found he had a broken fan belt. There was another six miles to go until we got to the rim of the crater where the view was magnificent, indeed better than expected. We saw a herd of about 30 Buffalo very close to the road.
We went to the youth hostel which was dirty and we weren’t allowed to put up tents. We are still short on some foods and there is nowhere to buy any until we reached Nairobi.
Tuesday 16 May: Tanzania
Breakfast was watery porridge and bread with no jam.
It is 2000 feet down into the crater, which is 10 by 12 miles across. It is a very steep descent to the floor.
As soon as we got there we saw a Zebra and Wildebeest and Giant and Thompson’s Gazelles.
Next we saw Jackals which were going after the Flamingos. There is said to be two million Flamingos.
Then we saw Hyenas, then Hippos in a pool, Elephants, Eland, and two Rhinoceros which started to charge us.
We saw three male Lions and a lioness, more Rhinos, Wildebeest, and Zebras everywhere. There were egrets, Crowned Crane, Egyptian Geese, ibis, herons, coots, stilts, plovers, bustards, and spoonbills.
When we stopped for lunch, some Vervet Monkeys ate bananas and the banana skins, and there were Olive Baboons and more Elephant.
We then came out of the crater a different and steeper way. As we got to the notice which announced the Serengeti, we saw a couple of very large Rhino.
All the way there were lots of gazelle and Wildebeest. We left the road at one point to go after a fantastic herd of Wildebeests – there must have been over 1000.
We got to Naabi Hill Gate by 5:45pm. The officials would not let us enter as we would not get to the camp before 7pm so we had to camp there at the gate. The meal took a long time to get ready and then there was not much of it. I felt really hungry at the end of it.
Wednesday 17 May: Tanzania
Drove slowly to Seronera Lodge. Got to the camp at 11am, which is very primitive. There is one toilet in the bushes, a litter bin and plenty of animals all around.
Once the tents were up we went out in search of game, but the heavens opened and in 10 minutes the tracks were raging torrents. We returned to camp and our tent had some water in it.
We went along the stream until we saw a Leopard in a tree. Soon after we sighted a pair of Cheetah. It was 6pm when we got back to the lodge and there were a lot of Rock Hydrax at the lodge.
Thursday 18 May: Tanzania-Kenya
At 8am we set off for the lodge to go to immigrations. As we got there, Paul had a broken axle so there we had to stay until 11.30. Just before we left, the workers spotted a Black Mamba in a tree and went chasing after it.
On our way, we saw a large herd of Impala, lots of gazelles, Zebra and some Warthogs and lots of Giraffe.
Just after the gate for the exit of Serengeti, we saw nine Lion cubs, 3 lionesses and a male all in the road.
We went through very heavy rain which made the road very slippery. We got to the border between Tanzania and Kenya at about 3pm. Some of the lads started to walk across the river and they were ordered back because there were Lions in the area.
It was 4pm before we were on our way again. We saw quite a few Maasai but no chances of a photo.
As we were going along one rather bumpy road the right back wheel came off Paul’s van. The wheel was ripped to bits and so was the brake drum. It was decided to set up camp by the side of the road along with the Wildebeest and Jackals which we could hear in the distance.
Bill and Mike took one Land Rover to get a new brake drum and Paul took a group of men to get timber. It took ages to get a meal ready.
Friday 19 May: Kenya
Off at about 8am.
After we had gone through the first village, Mike hit a donkey. After that we hit thick, sticky mud. You could see where cars and lorries had skidded all over the place and two were still stuck.
We came to a road junction, 47 kilometres from Nairobi, and then climbed a very long hill through a forest.
We arrived in Nairobi about 12:30. As we parked, a person was knocked over by a car and the crowd started to stone the car.
We went to American Express and picked up two letters from mum. We bought some sterilising tablets, milk and tea.
Mac had all his cash and traveller’s cheques stolen by confidence tricksters posing as policemen.
The camp is very crowded with people crossing Africa. The facilities are very limited. It is really only a car park in the city park. Mike has gone nasty again.
Saturday 20 May: Kenya
We went in Bill’s van into Nairobi. He left us quite a way out but we walked the rest. We got torch batteries and some rope.
We walked back to camp and later in the evening had a walk in the park. The gardens are lovely and the park extends quite a long way. The others went out to a nightclub at 8:30pm and we went to bed.
Sunday 21 May: Kenya
Most of them got back between 4 and 4:30am and made a lot of noise. We were up just gone 6 so got the rest of our washing done.
By 8am we were so hungry we got ourselves some bread and a cup of coffee. We spent the whole day in and around the camp. There was no chance of anything to eat at lunchtime so felt very hungry for the rest of the day.
About 5pm it rained very hard and flooded the road and some other tents.
It was 7.30pm before we started eating. Glennis said the chicken was so bad was bad so they used the eggs which should have been for tomorrow’s breakfast. We asked for bread to go with the soup and were told it was not necessary; in the end some of them ate the chicken.
Monday 22 May: Kenya
Had to go into Nairobi to collect passports from the Nigerian embassy and take to the Zaire embassy. We did a bit of shopping: dates, soap and flip-flops. We then walked back to camp.
We had a stroll in the park and a man warned us about either monkeys or people taking bags. To be on the safe side we kept to the open flower bed parts.
The meal wasn’t ready until 8pm and we were allowed half a slice of bread each.
Tuesday 23 May: Kenya
Mike informed us that anyone not getting their passport would be left behind.
We did the last of our washing before walking into Nairobi where we called at the embassy to make sure that they would hand them to us personally and no one else.
We washed our hair. Mike tried to assure us that the vans were in good condition.
Wednesday 24 May: Kenya
We got 28 miles out of Nairobi when we stopped to photograph the view from the escarpment.
Mike announced that his van was returning into Nairobi for repairs. Paul told us that a spring had broken.
The scenery was attractive for the rest of the day with hills and lakes.
It was too dark to take a cine picture of the equator but Annette took a slide. It is 9109 feet at this point and soon after we reached 9300 feet.
We arrived at Eldoret at 8:15pm, put up the tents and waited for a meal. The meal was at 9:45pm. The animal noises made by our lot during the night were disgusting.
Thursday 25 May: Kenya-Uganda
The scenery is pleasant but not spectacular.
We got to the Kenya-Uganda border and Bill was told to put his shirt on.
We were held up at the Uganda side apparently because Ellen, the American, should have had a visa. She was allowed in on condition that she went straight to Kampala and got one. Naturally we did not go to Kampala.
We carried on to Mbale and then Soroti where the surfaced road ended and all camping possibilities also. The rain continued most of the time.
We went past the school and it was decided to camp there. It was a Catholic mission school.
Friday 26 May: Uganda
The scenery today was a mixture of villages and then fields and some stretches of jungle.
We got to Choka Lodge at 1:30pm. We had a chance to look at the Nile while the others were getting lunch ready.
At lunch there was a scene because some of us had three slices of bread.
The view from the camp is really lovely. A thunderstorm started about 9pm and reached a climax about midnight when rain started running freely into the tent.
Saturday 27 May: Uganda
We went to the hotel to get tickets for the boat trip. While we were there, three Elephants came to the hotel for their breakfast.
The boat trip started at 9am and the first thing the boatman did was chase a group of Hippo onto the land so we could photograph them. We got stuck in the process.
We saw lots of Hippo and quite a few Crocodiles.
The boat goes quite close to the Murchison Falls.
We returned to camp for lunch and it was decided to stay another night there. Off at 3pm to visit the Murchison Falls. We had to go across a ferry; while we were waiting a Hippo came walking by.
We saw a group of Elephants and one was the smallest thing you could imagine.
The Falls were lovely but we only had half an hour there as the last ferry was at 6:30pm. Mike sounded his horn and the Ranger came up and asked him to go to a hut. Mike said “Why?” so the Ranger said, “I arrest you”.
After quarter of an hour Mike was allowed to go but this meant we had to hurry and we bumped and crashed all the way. We got stuck in the mud so everyone had to get out. We made the ferry just as it was coming in.
As we got into bed we heard a queer noise. I thought it was Colin messing about but it turned out to be three Elephants very close to our tenant.
Again at midnight we were disturbed by one Elephant on its own who came even closer and walked round the edge of the camp. We cleared out of the tent until it was clear.
Sunday 28 May: Uganda
We came across a car that had broken down in the middle of the road near a big herd of Elephants.
We stopped at Tsetse Fly control post. A man objected to us taking a photo without paying but we talked our way out of that one.
We went into Masindi for bread. The roads were crowded with people all in their best clothes. A large proportion of our lot are suffering from the trots.
This evening was pleasant rolling hills with mainly small holdings selling bananas, pineapples and tomatoes on the side of the road.
We got into Kampala about 4:30pm and got the tents up.
Monday 29 May: Uganda
We walked into Kampala. It is very much a country town with one long main street stretching along a valley. At almost every point you can see green hills.
We went to American Express and there were two letters for us from mum.
The parliament building is a modern building of an interesting and unique design.
Tuesday 30 May: Uganda
The road to Masaka was quite attractive – hilly with a mixture of farms and jungle.
At Nabusanke we crossed the equator again and soon after had our one and only glance of Lake Victoria.
Masaka to Mbarara was more open with quite large herds of cattle with enormous horns.
After Mbarara we entered a flat valley which is the Queen Elizabeth National Park. The president has banned miniskirts.
We went past Lake George and could see Buffalo, Hippo and also Elephants. At the lodge there were Buffaloes, Warthogs and lots of storks.
As they were getting the meal ready someone saw a Lion not many yards from the camp. We saw it kill a Waterbuck and then drag it into the bush about 100 yards from our tents.
We got to bed about 9pm but not many minutes after we heard Lions roaring followed by shrieks and yells from our lot; then the Lions came bounding past our tent. Their feet made a lot of noise. We got out of the tent and went into the Land Rovers. We decided that we would spend the rest of the night in the Land Rover.
In the headlights we could see an Elephant approaching and we saw two Hippo wander across the road nearby. At 3:20am we awoke to see an Elephant standing by the food tent picking banana skins out from the rubbish. Then he walked very close to Bernadette’s tent.
Wednesday 31 May: Uganda
We walked towards the village to look at some Warthogs.
At 2:30pm, we went in the vans to look for game. There were a lot of Elephants and Buffaloes as well as Hippo by the dozens.
We returned to camp for 5pm and soon after three Lions were spotted and two Elephants. A Land Rover drove behind the lions and push them towards the village and us.
Thursday 1 June: Uganda-Zaire (now Democratic Republic of Congo)
Bill didn’t returned to camp until 3am this morning and he looks as if he has a hell of a hangover and his driving is in that mode.
The road got progressively narrower as we approached Zaire. It took about one hour to get through the Ugandan side. The road was so narrow that the grass touched the car on both sides. It was mainly opened bushland with occasional areas of forest.
As we near Beni we got into a region of habitation. Each house had its own garden with bananas and pawpaws. There was poinsettia growing wild in the forest. We got to Beni at 2pm.
At 5:30 we started look for a camping spot. We found one where there had been roadworks right by a pygmy village. The headman gave us permission to stay and they played music while the meal was being cooked.
Friday 2 June: Zaire
Had a job to get our tent packed before breakfast, they were so dreadfully muddy. The pygmies gathered round us and some of us got photos but they did not like it.
The headman was the only one clothed in shirt and shorts. Last night he exchanged his musical instrument for a pair of Graham’s shorts. Most of the women had just a shirt around the lower part and nothing on top. The men had just a G-string.
We left the campsite about 7am and bounced our way on. We turned off at Komanda and got into open grassland and then returned to jungle mixed with plantations of bananas and pawpaws.
We got to Mambasa at midday where there is a police station and a post office, three to four shops a bakery and that is your lot.
An Englishman told us that all the water around there was not fit to drink unless you use the army tablets. He also told us that the road to Kisangani was not really suitable.
As we had lunch all the children crowded round watching. We went past a lot of smaller villages including several real pygmy villages made of sticks and leaves like little igloos.
We stopped to photograph the Epulu river and then found a good camp spot and got the tents up quickly as it was thundering.
Saturday 3 June: Zaire
The scenery was forest and villages. We stopped at Bafwasede for petrol where the children all wanted their photos taken so a good time was had by all. We bought some peanuts which were very fresh and nice.
All along the road there are old palm plantations which have been allowed to go to ruin. There were several coffee plantations.
We varied in speed between 20 to 30 miles an hour. The second stretch of surfaced road to Stanley Falls (now Boyoma Falls) was worse than a dirt road. There were some terrible dips in it.
We got to Kisangani about 6pm and finished up at the police station in the centre of the town. The town must have been very lovely at one point but all the buildings are going to ruin and it looks a depressing sight.
Just as we got to bed someone came along to say we could not stay where we were, but we did not move. Most of the group went out drinking and did not return until 2.30am. The toilet was terrible.
Sunday 4 June: Zaire
We got up just before 5am so as to go to the toilet before it got too bad. We went to the River Congo and then to the market which was very interesting.
After lunch we met two vans going the other way. They said they had been stoned near the border.
During the afternoon Mike’s van hit a child. Many people along this stretch have goitre. We stopped we stopped to watch some women dancing. I am not sure how much alcohol they had consumed.
We got to Banalia about 4:30pm and had to cross the ferry.
We found a camp at a deserted house in a village. We had the whole village watching us eat and put up tents. Water for the village comes from a stream quite a way away. Harry got a man to get two buckets of water.
Monday 5 June: Zaire
Within 15 miles of setting off, Paul had his van almost over. He slipped into a ditch and went slowly over until it rested on the bank. He had to be towed out by Mike.
We got to Buta about 3:15pm and we’re left outside a bar. There were no soft drinks to be had in the entire place.
It was pitch dark by the time tents were up. We got water from the well so washed some clothes as well as ourselves.
Tuesday 6 June: Zaire
The forest was more dense now and the villages were more hidden from the road. Most people were friendly but one or two were a little hostile. The road was a very narrow track which was mostly sandy.
We got to Bondo just before 3pm and went across the ferry.
We were taken in search of a bar but they were closed. Harry got a man to bring a pineapple while they were waiting and there then followed a brisk trade in cheap pineapples.
Beer was served and everything went very well indeed until the drivers took beer bottles into their vans. The barman got frantic – they had paid for the beer but not the bottles. We left with the children calling us ‘voleurs’.
Wednesday 7 June: Zaire
We went down a very narrow track to a ferry. It is a collection of five canoes joined together.
A man beat a metal can to get the men to come and work the ferry. We had to go across one vehicle at a time. There were eight men to paddle as across and two men to supervise. It was lovely and peaceful.
The road beyond was very narrow with the forest growing right into it.
Soon after lunch we came to bridge repairs. A gang of men were just about to move an enormous log of teak into place. They were using a liana as a rope. It was all done to a very musical chant.
At times the track became almost lost in the deep grass.
We got to Ndu at 5pm and had difficulty with the immigrations. They insisted that one van went back to Monga to get the passport stamped.
We camped by the river by the ferry.
Mike went off to get drinking water and came back saying it was worse than the river water, so we were to drink the river water. We filtered the river water so as to have a wash.
Thursday 8 June: Zaire-Central African Republic
At 5am a terrific storm broke. The rainwater was used for drinking. We spent the morning watching the ferryman playing a game with beans.
Mike arrived back just got 1pm. He turned the van over on the way – there was a plank missing in the bridge and he didn’t notice. He had to get the locals to put the van up right. The Swiss van we saw earlier on came by and gave him a winch out.
There’s no lunch as there is no bread left.
It was about 3:30pm when we finally got to Bangassou. We decided to plough on. We got to Kembe about 8:30pm.
Friday 9 June: Central African Republic
Got up at 5:30am and hurried to get the tent down before the thunderstorm broke.
Paul had a puncture and then ran out of petrol so had to syphon from Bill’s van.
It was gone 1pm when we arrived in Bambari. We went to a petrol station where it took about half an hour to fill up as it was a hand pump.
At 6pm we came to a village so it was decided to camp. We tried the gendarmerie and they said we could go in front of the youth hostel. They said we could get water at the gendarmerie. We made camp and one van went off, we thought to get water, but – no – they found a bar and that was that, no water.
Saturday 10 June: Central African Republic (to Bangui)
The scenery has opened up into savannah grasslands, though much of the grass has been eaten by goats, pigs and cows.
The villages are bigger than in the Congo. Some of their houses have drawings on them.
We got to Sibut and, as we went round a sharp corner, there was a grinding noise. The bolts on the rear left hand wheel were loose. I’m sure they had stripped. The wheel did not come off, but three bolts have been pulled out of their hub.
The three drivers went back into Sibut to get a spare hub. As we entered the town, the front righthand wheel began to wobble badly. The kingpin must have gone.
We arrived at the hospital at 3:30pm and left Helen there.
We went for a swim in the river and then went to try and get some money. The hotel would not change the traveller’s cheque so we went to a self-service shop. A very nice young lad came to our rescue. He could not change the cheque but he changed our one and only dollar note.
Then we got a shock: for $1.00 we were only able to buy a small quantity of bread and a little bit of Gervais cheese. Sardines were 350 francs, jam 340 francs. There was no sugar at all. Helen and Bernadette are staying at the hotel at $20 a day with no food.
Sunday 11 June: Central African Republic (Bangui)
Breakfast was porridge without much sugar and no milk. After that we walked into Bangui.
We spent the rest of the day in the water and sitting by the tent. The evening meal was soup, dried potato, dried beans and a corn cob.
Monday 12 June: Central African Republic (Bangui to wild camp)
Had porridge with no sugar and two tiny bits of bread. Philippa, Nikki and Richard are all ill now.
We camped for the night among a lot of termite hills and had difficulty pitching the tent, especially as it was dark.
Tuesday 13 June: Central African Republic (wild camp to Nuna-Bakassa)
We left at 7:45am in the rain.
When we got to Bossembele, Mike couldn’t get the van to go. We tried pushing but that didn’t work. Mike filled up the radiator which has a leak. Then Mike discovered he’d run out of fuel. Paul’s van has got terrible trouble with the wheels.
We finally entered Bossangoa at 1:30pm. Here there was a different tribe. The women were very tall and redder grown in colour with long, rather straggly hair. On their heads they carried large wooden cup shaped bowls with lovely carvings on. Their faces have a lot of markings on them.
Just as it was getting dark we entered Nunabakassa. Paul, the driver, is ill. We hit a pig going through one of the villages.
Wednesday 14 June: Central African Republic (Nuna-Bakassa) to Chad (wild camp beyond Lai)
At 4am we woke up to hear drums which gradually increased in tempo until almost frenzy point. At 5am the villagers were already around the camp. The men looked starving and ragged but the women are quite buxom and fairly well dressed.
The journey today was through forests which in some parts have been cleared with kassava and maize planted. but goats are the nuisance.
We arrived at Baguernal, the border town with Chad at 8:30. The scenery changed to more open country.
At Doba we pulled into the market.
The journey took us along a river to Lai. The road became very bad and muddy and at 6pm we waited for the last van. We waited about 20 minutes and then went back and found that Paul had been overtaking a lorry and had overturned. Luckily there was no damage and no-one hurt.
Thursday 15 June: Chad (wild camp to N’Djamena)
We got on the road but did not get far because Paul’s van broke down. A nut came off between the normal and transfer gearbox.
We passed some villages with groups of round huts of different sizes grouped in circles.
We went through Bongor and on towards Fort Lamy. Yesterday a van full of explosives was found in Fort Lamy so we must expect police checks and be very careful.
The heat became intense and the road was very dusty. Mike said we would not stop for lunch but go on to Fort Lamy. Paul collapsed so the other Paul had to take over driving.
We put the tent up and got wet in the River Chari. Had a raging thirst all afternoon.
Friday 16 June: Chad: N’Djamena (Fort Foreau)
We went into town and called at the post office but no letter.
We finally moved and went to the Cameroon customs but it was closed until 3:30. It was decided to try and get through without releasing the car.
A few seconds before the ferry arrived the police remembered about the carnet so we had to wait until 3:30. It was 5.15 when we got to the immigration office.
A dust storm blew up. It was decided to camp so we got the tents up and a meal.
Saturday 17 June: Cameroon and Nigeria (N’Djamena to Maiduguri)
Up at 5am. Van change this morning. Through customs into Cameroon.
The road was in bad condition and we saw quite a few baboons some of which were orangey colour on the back with a white front. There were a lot of birds including Crowned Crane, egrets, blue starlings and two green parrots. We saw a group of men walking along the road who were leading a muscled hyena.
We got to the Cameroon-Nigeria border about 10:10. We were there about half an hour and then moved on into Nigeria. The heat was intense and to me almost overpowering.
The road to Maiduguri was an improvement except for the last 20 miles which were very sandy. We had lunch at 4pm and then Mike said there was something wrong with his van which had to be mended. Annette and I went for a walk. Elizabeth and Christine were taken to a hotel as they were feeling ill.
Two van loads of us went to the Lake Chad club. It was dark by the time we got there but we put on bathing costumes and got into the swimming pool which was lovely.
Sunday 18 June: Maiduguri, Nigeria
Mike told us we would be staying here till at least midday and only have one day in Kano as they could get some of the repairs done here. We spent all morning and afternoon getting wet in the pool. It was dark when Mike brought food back and then cleared off again. Cooking had to be done in the dark.
Monday 19 June: To Kano, Nigeria
It was hot with a clear blue sky. Jackie is now ill.
We went through Potiskum. Butterflies are causing a lot of trouble with overheating. Had to stop because Mike’s engine has gone wrong. They think it is a fuel blockage. Paul Hayes thinks it is a missing cylinder. Still 175 miles to go to Kano.
At 4:15pm it was discovered that the condenser had gone. Might decided he needed a new rocker valve gasket. The road was under repair for a long way and the whole journey was like a nightmare. Annette is not feeling too good.
We got into Kano at 11pm and found the canoe club but we were refused permission to camp. Finally got to bed about 12:30.
Tuesday 20 June: Kano, Nigeria
We are on cooking. Annette is definitely not well. Edwin is not much better.
Went to the post office and got mum’s letter. We inquired the way to the main shops and the man from the Ministry of Agriculture gave us a lift to the supermarket where we spent £1-14 shillings on tinned milk and tinned lemon juice.
We went in search of the market which was very hot, dirty and smelly with flies all over the place. We wrote an aerogramme home.
Sweat poured off us as we packed up. We managed to get everything over to a new campsite at the main police headquarters.
Wednesday 21 June: Kano, Nigeria
Annette is really ill this morning and so. Spent the whole day sitting in the shade of the trees.
Thursday 22 June: Kano, Nigeria
Vans packed at 7:30 but we were only going as far as the central hotel until 2:00 PM. We sat in the garden. Paul the driver is very ill. They took him to hospital for tests to see if he has malaria. As the height of the fever has passed they could not be sure but if the fever reoccurs within two to four days then it is malaria. Apparently, malaria tablets do not work if you have had bad diarrhoea.
We won’t be leaving today as Bill’s van still isn’t right. We found a camp place at the Jockey Club. The new camp is full of ants.
Friday 23 June: Kano, Nigeria
Harry kindly cut both our hair while we were waiting. Annette wrote a letter home and I went to a central hotel to post it. We put on a fairly good meal of new potatoes, beans, cheese sauce, and meat.
Saturday 24 June: Kano, Nigeria
Not much hope of moving today. We went to the chemist for some milk of magnesia for Annette. No food for lunch so I went to the garage to collect it.
They were working hard on the van and had changed the cylinder head three times, the coil, the thermostat and goodness knows what else.
Spent the whole afternoon at camp. The meal was quite good: bananas and custard and curry.
Sunday 25 June: Kano to Maradi, Niger
It took a long time to get the vans packed. Paul Martin, the driver, is flying to London and Mike will not pay anyone to drive. He finally agreed to pay Paul and Edwin £2 a day to drive. The steering in Paul’s van went wrong, so another hour’s wait.
We went via Katsini and the steering went again. We came to the first part of the Nigerian customs and drove to the Niger border. From Kano to Katsini were fields of millet all in neat rows.
We arrived at Maradi at 7pm and tried an army camp. Permission was, of course, refused and it was 8:30pm when we finally camped outside the police station with no toilet.
Monday 26 June: Maradi to wild camp in Niger
Got up in the dark to spend a penny. Told we will be leaving at 10. They were going to repair the steering and we went to the hotel to use the toilet.
Went to the market which was much cleaner and more interesting than Kano. All the time everywhere you go we have been pestered “Donnez moi un Cadeau”.
There are a fantastic number of deformed and blind people who are all begging.
At 1pm the van was ready and the police had to come and chase all the children and adults away. We went on to the unsurfaced road where we got dirt in the carburettor.
We stopped at a place called Madaoya for a drink and after that, for the first time for ages we started to climb into the hills.
Mike had a puncture. Bill ran out of petrol. And as we stopped there was a hissing noise – we were getting a flat tyre.
We found a campsite at the top of a hill, had a lick wash and a storm broke. First just a violent dust storm. then lashing rain and one tent went down in the first gust. We thought we would lose ours but it survived although it leaked like a sieve. I was pushing water out with my hands and Annette was bailing as fast as possible. Finally we just put on bathing costumes.
A meal of sorts was served but we had to wade through thick mud. We left our bathing costume on overnight.
Tuesday 27 June
The rain continued most of the night. A lot of them got everything soaked because they hadn’t put up a tent.
We left at 9am but did not get very far as we came to bridge repairs and the deviation was underwater. We took a donkey track up and over sand dunes and the locals told Bill tocross the river at a certain point. He got stuck. It took all the men to lift him out.
A few miles further on we came to a flowing wadi and a lorry stuck up full. This time Bill did walk through the river first to check it.
The road suddenly became a sandy track and wound through thornbushes and trees. We stopped for lunch under a thorn tree and after lunch the going got rougher as there was a lot of water on the road.
We went cross country to found Bill’s tracks and followed them for what seemed like ages through the bushes. We finally found him but no road. Bill had parked on a hill near a group of locals. The women all came into the vans and were fascinated by the softness of our hands.
From that point we went in and out of bushes and Annette had to get out a couple of times as we went over creeks.
About 5pm we came to a water tower so we called in for water. The sun set at 7 and another Land Rover pulled up and told us that we had 25 kilometres of a very bad road until the next village.
We camped and two men with donkeys came up and decided to spend the night outside our tent. A storm broke soon after.
Wednesday 28 June: Through Niger to Agadez
The road was either very sandy or underwater. Paul hit a very bad bump that made us bang our heads on the roof. He went into some mud and we stuck fast and there was no pushing out. Mike tried towing but in the end we had to wait for Bill and then the two together towed it out.
We stopped in a village for water but Mike had a puncture. We now have only one spare tyre left. The tail pipe came loose.
We went down a wadi to get into the shade but two of the vans got stuck. There were crowds of people so it was impossible to spend a penny.
Got into Agadez about 4:15. Phillip is ill again. The camp is a long way out of the town.
Thursday 29 June: Agadez to wild camp (Niger)
It looks like Annette has got the bug again. Left Agadez and entered a flat dust pan with no features at all. It got dustier and we saw quite a few camels.
We saw an artesian well so stopped to fill the water carriers and had a bit of fun getting wet.
Stopped for the night at 7pm. I saw a gazelle at the water hole. Had some horrible large spider type of insects running all over the cook tents.
Friday 30th June: Wild camp to wild camp (Niger)
On the way just gone 7:30 but soon hit trouble. We saw the two French cars which were at the Agadez camp yesterday stuck in the mud, and we helped them out.
Soon after we hit sand. The French cars got stuck again so this time we left them.
After that it was a series of getting stuck and overheating. A hot dusty wind came up.
It was decided to have tea then carry on after dark. Tea was soup, a spoonful of custard and two cups of tea.
It was a nightmare of a journey as Mike had no headlights. Bill came to a sudden stop and the were people from the van were rushing everywhere. There was a fire in the dashboard. We were 11 miles from the Niger border post.
It was decided to spend the rest of the night there. No tents or cases; only sleeping bags.
Saturday 1 July Niger into Algeria
Off about 6:30, arriving at the Niger/Algeria border at 7am. There was an artesian bore so all water carriers were filled.
It was a kind of road for most of the way. A hot burning wind came up so they couldn’t get the porridge to cook so we ended up with having two bits of very dry bread and jam and a cup of warm ( not boiled) coffee.
We did 17 miles then overheated, another 60 miles then overheated again, so we decided to rest up until evening. At 2:45pm Fred offered dried bread and sardines to anyone who wanted.
The vans were not ready for the road until 7:15pm. A washer had gone so they had to make a replacement from cardboard. It was a hell of a journey with Mike trying to follow close to us but not really seeing as we have no rear lights and no brake lights.
We carried on until nearly 10pm when we got stuck in the sand.
Sunday 2 July: To Tamanrasset
Up at 4:30. We did about 50 miles before overheating, then managed 17 miles, then 10 miles, and two lots of eight miles.
We found a well but it was too deep for us.
We got to Tamanrasset about 1pm. I went to a hotel where we tried to change money but none was going and there was no food.
The camp turns out to be grass huts. There was no question of putting up tents – we have to have had to have one of their dirty huts.
The meal was late: macaroni and mincemeat followed by custard and macaroni.
Monday 3 July: Tamanrasset, Algeria
After breakfast we went in search of customs. We bought a tin of orange juice and some biscuits. Spent the rest of the morning and afternoon inside the hut playing cards.
Tuesday 4 July: Tamanrasset, Algeria
Went into Tamanrasset. There was a crowd of our lot outside the bank which apparently had opened for a few minutes and then closed again.
The afternoon passed very slowly and full of rumours that we might be off tonight. The meal was at 7pm because it was thought that there was to be dancing at 8pm. We went along to the open air theatre and heard two songs and then they packed up. The children were terrible little nuisances.
Wednesday 5 July: Tamanrasset to wild camp
Left Tamanrasset at 9.45am. The scenery was quite impressive with a mixture of broken lava flow and large granite outcrops.
We passed two oases and it was not quite so hot, so travelling was pleasant.
We came to a surfaced road and a military camp but then the back axle broke and Mike had a puncture.
About 5pm it was decided the only thing was to disconnect the propeller shaft and plough on in front wheel drive.
When the sun went down it was decided to camp for the night. Elizabeth is ill again. No tents again.
Thursday 6 July: Algeria
Breakfast at 4:30am, on the road by 5:30. It had been a lovely cool night but Graham and Elizabeth are both ill.
Carried on until Arak, which is half a dozen grass huts and an old brick building about two miles away. This was all in a very beautiful canyon.
Paul and Mike’s van stopped for water and Mike lost the bucket and rope down the well. His car would not stop start because of vaporisation. The steering on Paul’s van went completely.
It was suggested that Paul and Mike carried on until dark as they have no lights and then Bill come on later as his petrol was boiling but he could use his lights.
We got 20 miles further on when there was a terrible smell of oil. We stopped and the radiator was dry but the thermometer had only recorded 85 degrees Fahrenheit. As we got out of the van the tyre went down.
Air temperature at 7pm: 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
Friday 7 July
On the road by 5:30am. We went ahead of the others to see if we could make In Salah before it got too hot.
About 50 miles along the road we saw a lorry in trouble and gave one of the men a lift. Then the steering went. With the tools from a Land Rover which passed us we did a temporary job.
We managed to chug along for a further 5 miles until the steering went completely. Mike’s van had had a puncture.
A bus came by with Fred on it. He got off and our extra passenger got on the bus.
Mike sat in his van for about 10 minutes and then he went to Bill’s van and got in the back with Elizabeth for about 15 minutes and then got out and halfway back to his own van he said “Oh God!” and cried.
We got into In Salah just before 2pm. Edwin asked if we could sleep on top of the hotel roof. It was very hot up there but it got us away from where we were in front of a cafe.
There was no question of a meal so we got a tin of mincemeat and had that and fruit juice. Elizabeth was violently sick.
We made inquiries about trying to get home on a bus and found that a local one was due out tomorrow costing 38 dinar and we could probably get on it providing we could get the luggage off the Land Rovers.
Saturday 8 July
Got up at 5am to see what we could do about the bus. Dorothy, Harry and Roy said they would come with us.
We went to the bus and found we could get on it but had to have the money in advance. Annette had heard about a hotel that would change money but it was well and truly closed.
We must have looked very dejected as a man stopped his Land Rover and asked us what the matter was. We told him our difficulty with money and he said to give him half an hour.
True to his word he came back with money and he took a traveller’s cheque in return. I changed £20 which was enough for Dorothy, Harry and us. The man was a Canadian working for an oil firm. He was very good to us and stayed with us until we got onto the bus.
Mike came up to me as I was getting the cases and asked for the money he claimed we owed him for camping fees. I told him I was not going to pay and that he owed us a lot. He said by leaving the trip we forfeited the cross channel fare and said he would stop me trying to get our cases if I didn’t pay. I said, “Try and stop me and I will get the police and I know who will win”.
Our Canadian friend drove the luggage up to the bus and then took me to get some bread. The bus was very crowded and we only just managed to get a seat.
The bus went pretty fast at first and about one hour out we stopped to help a Volkswagen dormobile which was in trouble.
About one hour after that we came to a very steep hill. We stopped quite a while at the bottom. The brakes of a lorry must have failed as it had plunged into the hillside and almost overturned.
The view from the top of the hill was magnificent.
At 12:30 we stopped for siesta at a well and rest hut. We filled our water bottles from the well. It was extremely hot. Roy had the brilliant idea of using the driver’s stove to make a cup of tea using our empty fruit juice can.
The road was pretty rough. There was a cheer when we finally bumped onto a tarmac road.
About 8pm I was feeling as if I couldn’t last any longer when we hit sand on the road. We stopped and the man got out to push a car through the sand. Then we all had to get out because of the deep sand.
Soon afterwards we came across an artesian well called Mzaourou where we camped.
Sunday 9 July: Algeria (wild camp to Guardia)
Got up at 5am and had a shower under the artesian well. No one took the slightest notice of the fact I was in my underclothes. Roy managed to find some wood so he had a good supply of tea.
The bus left at 6 and by 7 we were in El Golea. We sat in the shade and Harry got some tomatoes so we ate them with bread.
About 11:15 the bus came and we sat on it sweating like mad until it left at 12. It was a very hot journey with sweat pouring down us.
At 2pm we stopped at an oasis that had two cafes.
We arrived in Guardia at 5:15pm and went to the Hotel de la Paix. We were told it was 5 dinar for each room so we had two rooms for the four of us. The night was hot and airless so we slept on the stone floor.
Monday 10 July: Algeria (Guardia onwards)
Make sure we were at the bank for 7am. The Banque National was open but they would not change money until 7:30. We went to the bus station to get our tickets for Algiers and returned to the hotel to pay.
We got a shock as he charged 25 dinner per room plus $10 to keep one on until 7pm so 60 dinar in all. I went to the Travel Bureau who agreed it was expensive and they suggested going to the police. When the policeman came, the hotel man passed him something so he won the battle and we had to pay.
At 7pm we moved out to the bus station. It was a Mercedes and had air conditioning. It was quite empty until the very last moment when 20 men and boys came in with rifles of different ages. But it was so comfortable after the other bus and Land Rovers.
We were behind two other buses. One was very crowded and puffing out a tremendous amount of black smoke and even sparks. Two hours out from Guardia this old bus broke down and the passengers were distributed between our bus and the other. There was hardly breathing room for the rest of the journey.
We seem to stop about every hour at some place or other but there was no chance at all of getting out to spend a penny.
Tuesday 11 July: Night bus to Algers
I managed to doze in between stops even though my legs were very cramped. At 4am we were passing through the Atlas mountains just as dawn broke.
At Medea we lost the first passengers and gradually the passengers thinned out. We arrived in Alger about 5am.
We found we could leave the luggage at the station. Roy and I said we would try to get our passage on a boat that was leaving at noon tomorrow. We went to the Banque d’Exterieure where we had to wait while the cashier stuck sellotape on dirty tattered 10 dinar notes.
We returned to the travel bureau where I was served but told that I needed some form from the bank. It was too much and I regret to say that I cried. Some man said he would show me but wanted me to go in a car which I wouldn’t.
A businessman who could speak English came to my rescue – I think he was Belgian or German. He explained what I needed to do and then took us to a reasonable hotel that he knew. However, it was full and so was the next and the next and so on. After about eight hotels he had to give up so Roy and I tried one on the harbourfront, The Royal, that had two rooms – one for 40 dinar and one for 30. We said we would take them without even looking at them.
Wednesday 12 July: Algers to France
Had a breakfast in our hotel room of tinned meat and tomatoes. About 9:15am we took our baggage down to the boat. At 1.15pm the boat sailed and we had a snack of our old friend: corned beef with tomatoes.
About 8pm we settled down for the night and I slept reasonably well considering I couldn’t stretch out at all. At 3am we moved to a lower deck which was cleaner so we could lie on the floor.
Thursday 13 July:
The boat docked at 11:20am [the diary does not say where, but Marseille seems likely] and the first thing we came to were three desks dishing out white tablets. We showed our cholera certificates and did not have to take the tablets.
We decide to take it easy and walk up to the station. The only train could get was at 9pm so we went and found some bread and oranges.
In the train we were lucky to find a compartment without reserved seats. The trouble was we had a nasty fat man who would insist on trying to touch you. I was better after Avignon as a woman next to me got out and then we lost two more so it wasn’t too bad. Roy finished up on the floor which made it better still as we were able to sleep on and off.
We got into Paris at 6am.
Friday 14 July
It was a public holiday so there were not many people on the Metro. We then got a train to Dieppe and back to England.